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学习制作天然奶酪

English | July 24, 2024 | ISBN: 9090008233 | 320 Pages | epub | 6,94 MB

Introduction Cheesemaking, as practiced in North America, is decidedly unnatural. Is there an approach to the art that’s not dependent on packaged mesophilic starter cultures, freeze-dried fungal spores, microbial rennet, and calcium chloride? Do cheesemakers really need pH meters, plastic cheese forms, and sanitizing solutions? Are modern technologies the only path to good cheese? What of traditional methodologies? Did cheesemakers make consistently good cheese prior to pasteurization? Did cheeses fail if they weren’t made in stainless-steel vats with pure strains of Lacto¬bacilli and triple-washed surfaces? Where are the guidebooks that teach traditional methods? Have our ancestors’ cheesemaking practices been lost to the forces of progress and commercialization? I believe that the quality and taste of cheese have declined dramatically as traditional methods have been abandoned. And that the idea—propagated by the industrial cheesemaking paradigm—that traditional ways of making cheese, with raw milk and mother cultures, make for inconsistent and poor-quality cheese is a myth. For there is wisdom in the traditional practices of cheesemakers . . . Generations upon generations of traditional cheesemakers evolved the diverse methods of making cheese while carefully practicing their art. All classes of cheese were discovered by cheesemakers long before they had a scientific understanding of the microbiological and chemical forces at play in its creation. Industry and science hijacked cheesemaking from the artisans and farmers some 150 years ago, and since then few new styles of cheese have been created; yet during that time hundreds, possibly thousands, of unique cheeses have been lost. Standard methods of cheesemaking—reliant on pasteurization, freeze-dried starters, and synthetic rennets that interfere with the ecology of cheese—are equivalent to standard practices in industrial agriculture, such as the use of hybrid seeds, chemical fertilizers, and pesticides that have overtaken traditional agriculture, and conflict with the ecology of the land. Cheese comes from the land and is one of our most celebrated foods; yet its current production methods are environmentally destructive, corporately controlled, and chemically dependent. In its eating we’re not celebrating the traditions of agriculture but rather pasteurization, stainless-steel production, biotechnology, and corporate culture. If we gave its methods of production some thought, we wouldn’t want to eat the stuff! It strikes me as absurd that there is no commonly practiced natural cheesemaking in North America. Farmers practice ecologically inspired agriculture; brewers are making beers and wines with only wild yeasts; bakers are raising breads with heirloom sourdough starters; and sauerkraut makers are fermenting their krauts with only the indigenous cultures of the cabbage. But cheesemakers are stuck in a haze of food technology, pasteurization, and freeze-dried commercial cultures, and no one even questions the standard approach. Other cheesemaking guidebooks insist that home cheesemakers adopt the industrial approach to cheese along with its tools and additives. Their advice is based on standards put in place to make industrial production more efficient, and a mass-produced product safer. But for small-scale or home-scale cheesemaking, a different approach can work. A Different Approach From the making of my very first Camembert, I knew there had to be a better way than the cheesemaking methods preached by the go-to guidebooks. I just couldn’t bring myself to buy a package of freeze-dried fungus, and my search for alternatives to commonly used cheese additives led to a series of discoveries—about the origins of culture, about the beauty of raw milk, and about the nature of cheese—that set in place the philosophies of this guidebook. Not being one to blindly follow the standard path, I set out to teach myself a traditional approach to cheesemaking. The methods I share in this book are the result of 10 years of my own experimentations and creative inquiry with milk: years of trial and error in my kitchen, rediscovering, one by one, a natural approach to making every style of cheese. I now practice a cheesemaking inspired by the principles of ecology, biodynamics, and organic farming; it is a cheesemaking that’s influenced by traditional methods of fermentation through which I preserve all my other foods; and a cheesemaking that’s not in conflict with the simple and noncommercial manner in which I live my life. I now work with nature, rather than against nature, to make cheese. When I teach my methods to students, there is not a single book that I can recommend that explores a natural cheese philosophy, and no website to browse but my own. It is this absence of information in print and online that led me to write this book. I never thought that I’d be an author, but I felt compelled to provide a compilation of methods for making cheese differently. For it’s about time for a book to lay the framework for a hands-on, natural, and traditional approach to cheese. The techniques presented in this book work. And the photographs within, featuring cheeses made by these methods, are the only proof I can offer. I wish I could share my cheeses with you so that you could taste how delicious a more naturally made cheese can be, but unfortunately I cannot sell the cheeses I make because raw milk and food safety regulations restrict me from selling cheeses made in the small-scale and traditional manner that I practice. If small-scale and traditional practices are constrained by regulations controlling cheese production and access to raw milk, perhaps it is time to question the authority of these standards. We need a more radical cheesemaking, a more natural approach to the medium of milk. But it’s surprising that it’s come to me to lay this foundation; for who am I, but a small farmer and a humble cheesemaker . . .

eBook Details

320 Pages 7 - 8 Hours to read 99k Total words Release Date: July 24, 2024 ISBN-13: 6569090008232 ISBN-10: 9090008233 Language: English Format: epub File size: 6,94 MB

中文|2024年7月24日|ISBN:9090008233|320页|epub|6.94 MB简介北美的奶酪烹饪绝对是不自然的。有没有一种不依赖于包装的中温发酵剂、冻干真菌孢子、微生物凝乳酶和氯化钙的艺术方法?奶酪制造商真的需要pH计、塑料奶酪和消毒溶液吗?现代技术是通往优质奶酪的唯一途径吗?那么传统方法呢?奶酪制造商在巴氏消毒之前是否制作出始终如一的优质奶酪?如果奶酪不是在不锈钢大桶中用纯乳酸杆菌菌株和三次洗涤表面制成的,它们会失败吗?教授传统方法的指南在哪里?我们祖先的奶酪制作实践是否已经被进步和商业化的力量所淹没?我认为,随着传统方法的放弃,奶酪的质量和味道急剧下降。工业奶酪制作范式传播的观点是,用生牛奶和母体文化制作奶酪的传统方式会导致奶酪质量不一致和差,这是一个神话。因为奶酪制造商的传统做法中蕴含着智慧。一代又一代的传统奶酪制造商在仔细练习他们的艺术的同时,发展出了各种制作奶酪的方法。早在奶酪制造商对其创造过程中的微生物和化学力量有了科学认识之前,他们就发现了所有类别的奶酪。大约150年前,工业和科学劫持了工匠和农民的奶酪制作,从那时起,很少有新风格的奶酪被创造出来;然而,在此期间,数百种,甚至数千种独特的奶酪已经丢失。奶酪制作的标准方法——依赖于巴氏杀菌、冻干发酵剂和干扰奶酪生态的合成凝乳酶——相当于工业化农业中的标准做法,例如使用杂交种子、化肥和杀虫剂,这些方法已经超越了传统农业,并与土地生态相冲突。奶酪来自陆地,是我们最著名的食物之一;然而,其目前的生产方法对环境具有破坏性,受到企业控制,并且依赖于化学物质。在它的饮食中,我们不是在庆祝农业的传统,而是在庆祝巴氏消毒、不锈钢生产、生物技术和企业文化。如果我们考虑一下它的生产方法,我们就不会想吃这些东西了!在我看来,北美没有常见的天然奶酪制作方法是荒谬的。农民实行生态农业;酿酒商只使用野生酵母酿造啤酒和葡萄酒;面包师们正在用传家宝酸面团发酵剂制作面包;泡菜生产商正在用当地的卷心菜发酵他们的泡菜。但奶酪制造商被困在食品技术、巴氏消毒和冻干商业文化的迷雾中,甚至没有人质疑标准方法。其他奶酪制作指南坚持认为,家庭奶酪制造商对奶酪及其工具和添加剂采用工业方法。他们的建议是基于使工业生产更高效、大规模生产的产品更安全的标准。但对于小规模或家庭规模的奶酪制作,一种不同的方法可以奏效。从我第一次制作卡门培尔奶酪开始,我就知道一定有比指南中宣扬的奶酪制作方法更好的方法。我就是买不起一包冻干真菌,我寻找常用奶酪添加剂的替代品,发现了一系列关于文化起源、生牛奶的美丽和奶酪的性质的发现,这些发现奠定了这本指南的哲学。我不是一个盲目遵循标准路径的人,我开始自学一种传统的奶酪制作方法。我在这本书中分享的方法是我自己对牛奶进行10年实验和创造性探究的结果:在厨房里经过多年的反复试验,一个接一个地重新发现了制作每种奶酪的自然方法。我现在练习奶酪制作,灵感来自生态学、生物动力学和有机农业原理;这是一种受传统发酵方法影响的奶酪制作,我通过这种方法保存所有其他食物;还有一种奶酪制作,它与我生活的简单和非商业方式并不冲突。我现在与自然合作,而不是与自然对抗,来制作奶酪。当我向学生传授我的方法时,我没有一本书可以推荐,它探讨了天然奶酪的哲学,也没有一个网站可以浏览,只有我自己的网站。正是由于印刷品和网络上缺乏信息,我才写了这本书。我从没想过我会成为一名作家,但我觉得自己很了不起
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