超越虚荣心：理发的历史和力量（麻省理工学院出版社）
From the award-winning author of Dressing Up, a riveting and diverse history of women’s hair that reestablishes the cultural power of hairdressing in nineteenth-century America.
In the nineteenth century, the complex cultural meaning of hair was not only significant, but it could also impact one’s place in society. After the Civil War, hairdressing was also a growing profession and the hair industry a mainstay of local, national, and international commerce. In Beyond Vanity, Elizabeth Block expands the nascent field of hair studies by restoring women’s hair as a cultural site of meaning in the early United States. With a special focus on the places and spaces in which the hair industry operated, Block argues that the importance of hair has been overlooked due to its ephemerality as well as its misguided association with frivolity and triviality. As Block clarifies, hairdressing was anything but frivolous.
Using methods of visual and material culture studies informed by concepts of cultural geography, Block identifies multiple substantive categories of place and space within which hair acted. These include the preparatory places of the bedroom, hair salon, and enslaved peoples’ quarters, as well as the presentation places of parties, fairs, stages, and workplaces. Here are also the untold stories of business owners, many of whom were women of color, and the creators of trendsetting styles like the pompadour and Gibson Girl bouffant. Block’s ground-breaking study examines how race and racism affected who participated in the presentation and business of hair, and according to which standards. The result of looking closely at the places and spaces of hair is a reconfiguration that allows a new understanding of the cultural power of hair in the period.
英语→2024年9月10日→ISBN:0262049058→248页→真正的EPUB→7.34 MB英语→2024年9月10日→ISBN:0262049058→248页→真正的EPUB→7.34 MB英语→ISBN:0262049058→248页→真正的EPUB→7.34 MB来自《装扮》的获奖作者，这是一部激动人心和多样的女性头发历史，重新确立了19世纪美国头发的文化力量。 在19世纪，头发的复杂文化意义不仅重要，而且还可能影响一个人在社会中的地位。内战后，理发业也是一个日益增长的职业，理发业是当地、国家和国际贸易的主要参与者。在《超越虚荣心》中，伊丽莎白·布洛克通过将女性头发恢复为美国早期的文化意义场所，扩大了头发研究的nascent field。特别关注头发行业运营的位置和空间，阻碍了人们的观点，即头发的重要性被忽视了，因为它的短命性，以及它与卷曲性和卷曲性的错误关联。正如街区澄清的那样，理发除了可怕之外什么都不是。 使用由文化地理学概念提供信息的视觉和材料文化研究方法，块识别头发所处的位置和空间的多个实质性类别。这些包括卧室、美发沙龙和受限人群宿舍的准备场所，以及聚会、仙女、舞台和工作场所的展示场所。这里还有企业主的不为人知的故事，许多人都是有色人种女性，还有流行风格的创造者，如庞巴迪和吉布森女孩蓬松。布洛克的开创性研究考察了种族和种族主义如何影响参与头发呈现和业务的人，并根据哪个标准。仔细观察头发的位置和空间的结果是一种重新配置，使人们能够对该时期头发的文化力量有新的理解。本站不对文件进行储存，仅提供文件链接，请自行下载，本站不对文件内容负责，请自行判断文件是否安全，如发现文件有侵权行为，请联系管理员删除。
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